Only the best will do...
I keep a broad range of rims in stock; most of the common sizes and some others. If I don’t have it in stock, it’s either coming in a consignment or can get one easily enough. I don’t keep cheap-end and brand-less name rims in stock. I find these very disappointing and hard to work with. Basically, if I won’t fit it to my own bikes, I’m not keen to fit it to yours.
Most of my rim stock are undrilled blanks in 32, 36 and 40 dimples. These are alloy, stainless steel, chrome plated and bare steel in various diameters, widths and cross sections for all applications. I then drill these blanks to suit each application.
Alloy Rims, shouldered or plain. These rims are extremely high quality and run very true after completion of the job. Available in a broad spectrum of sizes for racing and restoration. These are the best rims for race application with their gross trueness. They won’t slow you down!
Devon Rim Co
Stainless steel, chrome and bare steel rims. Another extremely high quality rim. Available in all classic sizes and custom fitment too. Devon’s highly polished stainless steel rims are beautiful to look at.
These are mainly for Japanese bike fitment. They look identical to the originals from the 1960’s and 1970’s. If you want your Japanese bike to look authentic then use these.
Vintage Rims NZ
Made in New Zealand. They make great beaded edge and well base rims to exacting standards. I quite often work from a bare blank and then dimple and drill to suit. I always know that when using these rims, the job will be great when completed.
Morad, CWC, SM Pro and others.
I keep limited supplies of these rims but do have access to the makers or wholesalers.
Dimple and drill
This is where the rim is completely blank so then I can dimple the rim in the power press to whatever configuration or amount that is required. Most car rims, beaded edge rims and custom rims are done this way.
Check out the video to the right.